I inhaled the heady aroma of luxury as we checked into our hotel

Which must annoy the competitive Emiratis.But the Dubai Mall at the bottom of the tower IS still a record breaker.At 13 million sq ft (more than 50 football pitches) it’s the largest in the world with 1,000 shops ranging from Tiffany to M a 22 screen cinema and an Olympic sized ice rink. Oh yes, and a 10 million litre aquarium with 33,000 inhabitants from 140 species, including sharks.It also smells absolutely fabulous, as do most hotels and public buildings in Dubai thanks to perfumed air con costing just a bit more than an Air Wick plug in.I inhaled the heady aroma of luxury as we checked into our hotel, the superb Fairmont Dubai, which has just had a multi million pound facelift.The 34 storey building is modelled on a barajeel (a traditional four turret Arab wind tower) and has 394 rooms, including 128 suites and luxury penthouses.There are two lavish nightclubs and 10 restaurants and bars, including Noire, the acclaimed «blind dining experience».You eat a three course meal in a pitch black room, served by waiters in night vision goggles who tell you where your glasses and plates are, but not what’s in/on them. It was great fun and the food was fantastic.The Fairmont also boasts a 40,000 sq ft spa with Turkish hammam steam rooms and a rooftop pool and bar which, at night, provides stunning views over the glittering skyline.It’s hard to believe the first tall building only went up in 1999.

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